SAFETY

In our opinion, Bishkek is far safer than most large Western cities, although there is, of course, some street crime. After dark, the streets are poorly lit, and we recommend that you do not walk alone at night — apart from anything else, the streets are full of holes — some deep — and you may break a leg. Bring a torch or buy one here. Exercise ordinary prudence, and insure against accidents and stolen goods! There are a sizable number of drug dealers in Kyrgyzstan though they are most unlikely to bother you except if you wander in particular areas of town.

Occasionally there are reports from independent travellers who have found themselves in situation which they consider to be threatening, and we have heard reports of some travellers being robbed in the mountains between Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, but have never met anyone who can confirm the details.

Poverty is rife in the country, many people are unemployed and alcohol is readily and cheaply available. As a result street crime is an issue which, perhaps, you should consider. Indeed, some of the embassies issue specific warnings to their nationals about this.

There are some confidence tricksters in Bishkek who run a number of scams, and a general rule is «If you see someone drop something … DON’T pick it up!». Also, be very careful when changing money at an exchange office. I always try to use an office which is off the street, (for example in a shop). Don’t be tempted to accept a better rate from someone standing outside an exchange office as they often seem to change your notes by sleight of hand to one of another, less valuable, denomination … especially dollars which are all the same size and colour.

In crowded areas, such as markets, keep a careful watch on your belongings and beware of pickpockets.

There have been some incidents of attacks on individuals at night and in areas frequented by foreigners. The embassies here tend to advise their citizens not to walk alone at night. In any case you should try to keep to well lighted areas or take taxis. (Incidentally, another reason for keeping to well lighted areas is that the pavements are not necessarily good. Many are uneven or have numerous potholes, missing manhole covers and so on.)

If you take a taxi in the city, then as a rule you should NOT get into a taxi which already has another passenger, nor allow the driver to pick up another passenger en route. (At night some drivers have their wives/girlfriends/friends with them for company — safety — but you cannot be sure who the other passengers are). Always agree a price before you start your journey, and don’t be surprised if the driver says something like «Skolko dash?» — «How much will you give?». In central Bishkek, almost any journey should cost less than the equivalent of a dollar — although variations will occur for the time of day/night, the weather, the type of car, the length of the journey (for example to the outlying districts) and the amount of time the journey is expected to take. Also, if it is obvious that you are a foreigner, then the rate is often (although not always) inflated.

If you have been visiting someone at night and take a taxi home, then ask them to accompany you whilst you get a taxi, to take the number of the taxi and you should arrange to telephone them when you get home so that they know you have arrived safely.

Perhaps more worrying is the apparent level of corruption among the police. The bureaucracy which abounds in the countries of the former Soviet Union offers almost unlimited opportunity to anyone unscrupulous and dishonest who is given a police uniform. Having said that, the police, generally, to be pleasant and helpful when treated with courtesy, respect and patience, and the authorities have made a lot of efforts to try to resolve problems in recent years.

In some places, particularly late at night or in some crowded areas, the police may stop you and ask for your passport. You should always carry your passport.

The police do have the authority to stop you and ask for your documents and they may ask to search your baggage, pockets etc. They may ask to look for needle marks on your arms. They do not have the right to «stop and search» except in extreme situations (see the Memo at the foot of this page). However, if for any reason they take do your money and count it, then check it when they give it back or you may find a note missing.

Tourists using the central bus station in Bishkek sometimes complain about police activity meeting buses. They are not always in uniform, and often ask travellers to accompany them into their office where they ask questions and go through pockets, luggage etc. — although in the year 2000 the situation had improved considerably.

We are told that there are over 200 stolen police uniforms in Bishkek, and former policemen do not always hand their uniforms back when they leave the service. There are also a wide variety of uniforms and it is not always obvious if you are dealing with a genuine policeman. If you are stopped by a policeman — make a (mental) note of the officer’s number in case of problems. Uniformed policemen should have badges or produce identification if you ask for it.

If you have a problem … do NOT offer a bribe. Wait for the policeman to tell you what he wants. Remember that foreign nationals must, if arrested, be allowed to contact their embassy, (not to do so is an infringement of the Vienna Convention) so have a list of the appropriate contact numbers.

One ex-pat resident says: «If all this makes you feel nervous then let me add that I have lived in Bishkek for several years; have been "out and about" at all hours of the day and night and have rarely felt threatened. On several occasions I felt nervous but the matter has passed off quietly and without incident. Most of these situations could easily have occurred to me in any major city of the world, and the usual precautions that you would take in London, Paris, New York etc. should be followed here as well, (perhaps a little more carefully because you are a foreigner, don’t speak the language etc.).»

As we said earlier, we consider that Kyrgyzstan is basically a safe place if you take the necessary precautions. In fact, as a general rule, the local people are usually very friendly and often want to practice their English/French/German etc. and are very helpful to foreigners.

This is the text of a leaflet given out to visitors arriving at Manas airport. Unfortunately, not everyone seems to be given one … and if you arrived by road you probably haven’t got one.

It has been scanned into the computer from an original — we accept no responsibility for the translation.

Please don’t forget that you have to register with the authorities (OVIR) within three days of your arrival — the first point — (Here it says 5 days — because there is a new law which states 5 days, but as far as we can ascertain the limit of three working days still remains — it has not been revoked.) If you are staying at the Silk Road Lodge or the Celestial Mountains Guest House in Naryn, or are one of our tours then we can arrange this for you.