TALAS

Talas is a little known town in a valley of the same name. It is cut off from the rest of Kyrgyzstan by the mountain ranges and the «easiest» route is via Kazakhstan — involving the need for a transit visa. It is, however, possible to reach the valley by following the Tuu Ashuu pass and then turning North off the main Bishkek-Osh road after skirting the Suusamir Plain.

This is known as the Land of Manas, reputedly it is the birthplace of the legendary hero, and has his mausoleum a few kilometres outside the city itself. In the grounds of the mausoleum is a museum dedicated to the story of the epic and it is overshadowed by a mound which was used as a lookout post by the sentinels whose duty it was to protect the valley. Archaeologists have made some interesting discoveries here and it appears that the mound may well be man-made — which, if true, is no mean feat.

This area marked the greatest extent of the Chinese empire — as in 751 the Chinese army was defeated by an Arab, Kyrgyz and Tibetan combined force at the Battle of Talas. For some time, China had been under the Tang dynasty — and they had succeeded in recovering lands that had been previously lost and stabilized the position on the Tibetan border. In the 740’s they gained control over Kabul and Kashmir. As they moved North and West, their forces under the Kao Hsien-chih (who led the army to victory in Gilgit and the Ferghana) they encountered the combined army and were defeated in the only battle between Arab and Chinese forces. The battle actually took place on the banks of the river Talas nearer the city of Taraz (Djambul) in Kazakhstan. It was more than just a military defeat for the Chinese, however, because amongst the prisoners rounded up after the battle were many experts in the manufacture of paper and silk — two closely guarded secrets by the Chinese — and their secrets soon found their way Westward to Europe. The Arabs were also wellplaced to extend the influence of Islam throughout Central Asia — and along the Silk Road, even if they didn't pursue the Chinese back into China.

This area marked the greatest extent of the Chinese empire — as in 751 the Chinese army was defeated by an Arab, Kyrgyz and Tibetan combined force at the Battle of Talas. The battle actually took place on the banks of the river Talas nearer the city of Taraz (Djambul) in Kazakhstan. It was more than just a military defeat for the Chinese, however, because amongst the prisoners rounded up after the battle were many experts in the manufacture of paper and silk — two closely guarded secrets by the Chinese — and their secrets soon found their way Westward to Europe.

The area has been settled since about the 9th century, but when the Russians seized the settlement in 1864, it was little than a village. The modern town was founded in 1877, as the village of Dmitrovskoye. At first there were about 100 houses built the settlers, who were mainly engaged in agriculture. The most significant building was a church built of brick in the 1920's.

There is a picturesque wooded park in the centre of the town, on the banks of the river and a large main square.

In the neighbourhood are some good examples of rock drawings and petroglyphs.

To the South of the City is the spectacular Besh Tash (Five Stones) Valley — just one of many valleys awaiting the more adventurous traveller.

The region also boasts the birthplace of the best known modern Kyrgyz author — Chinghiz Aitmatov — in Sheker, a small village near the Uzbek border.

There is a hotel in Talas, some guesthouses in Talas and Sheker, and yurts are available sometimes in the summer months. At least one local firm offer services for travellers.