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The Celestial Mountains Tour Company
Kievskaya 131 - 2 , Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan , (996 312) tel 21-25-62; fax 61-04-02
Email: celest@infotel.kg

yurts

The yurt is the traditional dwelling of the nomadic peoples of Central Asia — including the Kyrgyz. They are found from Anatolia to Mongolia. It is not possible to say which of the ancient nomadic tribes originally developed the traditional design — but it is still in use by people throughout the region and plays an important role in the lifestyle of the Kyrgyz «chaban», or shepherd. Although styles of architecture and city planning come and go, the yurt remains a stable and lasting link with the past.

Although basically similar, there are different styles of yurt. A Kyrgyz yurt, for example is taller than a Kazakh yurt, with a steeper roof and smaller circumference.

A skillful master can make a yurt within a month — although it can last, if looked after, for decades.

A khan could measure the number of his subjects by counting the number of «tyutyuns», or smoke that would rise from each yurt. This word is still used in Kyrgyz villages to count the number of households — even though in most modern villages the people live in brick houses.

For their yurts a family needs between 130 and 170 kilograms of wool and a family needs a flock of at least thirty-three sheep a year for basic sustenance.

The «koychumans» usually set up their yurts on high ground, from where they can easily oversee their livestock, and watch the surrounding world. They can also be seen in valleys beside a mountain stream. In autumn and winter, windless spots that lacked heavy snowfalls were preferred.

To set up a yurt one starts with the door casing — the «bosogo». Erecting a round trellis wall -(the kerege) -, which consists of several blocks, follows this of «kanats». Each kanat is made out of long wooden poles, specially bent and tied up with rawhide straps. Normally birch tree trunks are used for the kanats. The surface of the poles used in the yurt is thoroughly polished by the master who works them to the correct shape and thickness. The wooden surface is treated with a special substance and painted, after which the poles can retain their original flexibility for a long time.

When spread the kanats form a rhombic grid — the «kerege koz». The cupola beams are then installed and the men of the household are then called upon to set in place the «tyunduk» at the top of the yurt. The tyunduk is an essential symbol of the Kyrgyz and was chosen as part of the emblem to represent the nation on the national flag. From the outside the yurt is covered by the «chiy», a sort of felt mat that displays a sophisticated ornament. Finally the nearly finished structure is covered with a specially prepared thick felt «kiyiz». Usually a yurt is covered by several layers of felt — each layer fixed by strong strings to poles dug into the ground around the yurt.

The tyunduk is partially covered with a felt mat, which in the daytime and in clear weather is folded back, whilst in the cold or rainy season can shut tightly against the hole in the roof and so preventing wind and rain from penetrating into the interior.

In stormy weather the occupants attach fine lassos to the ceiling. They are often mistaken for decoration, as their ends are large tassels of multicoloured threads hanging down from the tyunduk. However, if necessary, they can be pulled down and attached to the poles in the middle of the yurt — which adds strength to the structure and helps it to withstand even very powerful storms.

The Kyrgyz refer to the yurt as the «bozuy» — the grey house. In ancient times ordinary nomads could not use the best quality felt to cover their yurts and they used the wool remains of black and grey colours. The khan's yurts would be dressed in snow-white felt and were called «ag-orgo» or white yurts. The welfare of the yurt? s owner used to be determined by its size: the more kanats, the richer the family. The khan? s yurt would comprise some 4 or 5 kanats — that is it would measure some 20 meters in circumference,

Life in the yurt centred on the «kolomto» — the fireplace -, which was directly beneath the tyunduk. Behind the kolomto, near the rear wall of the yurt, just opposite the entrance stood the «juk» — blankets, carpets and pillows piled up on chests or special props. The height of the juk was another indicator of the family"s wealth. The mistress of the yurt would ensure that the juk consisted of fine looking, thick «toshoks» — blankets and carpets. On hot, sunny days they were taken outside and spread on the grass to expose them to direct sunlight. Fluffed up steeped in the aroma of fresh mountain herbs they made a pleasant place to sleep. The place in front of the juk is called the «tyor» which served as a seat for guests of honour — «aksakals» — wise old men. In everyday life the head of the family occupied the tyor. Next to him sat his sons, whilst the area nearer the entrance was designated for the women — his daughters and the mistress of the ? household?. These traditions were followed very closely and no Kyrgyz would violate the order (although there was no special ? punishment? for those who offended the established code of precedence).

On the right of the entrance was a space reserved for women's work? — the «eptchi zhak». It served to keep utensils and an area to wash dishes. The kerege here contained embroidered bags in which were kept needles, threads, needlework, knitting and nick-nacks.

The part of the yurt reserved for men, the «er-shak» was located on the left-hand side. The kerege here contained harnesses, «kamtchas» (horse whips), hunting knives — all the necessary tools one would need to rear cattle, for hunting and handicrafts.

The day in the yurt begins before dawn. The women would already be cooking breakfast and putting food into bags for the men who would lead the herds out to the pastures. After seeing them off, the women would attend to other ? household? tasks. Boys who could barely walk were taught to ride a horse. The girls would learn about cookery, embroidery and the traditional patterns which adorn «shyrdaks», «ala-kiyiz» and «tush kiyis». These ? carpets? would be placed on the walls or the floors of the yurt. They not only served practical purposes — helping to keep the yurt warm — they also had an aesthetic function. The patterns reflect the colours and shapes found in nature — such as the variety of colour and fragility of flower petals, eagles with proudly bent wings, the blue tints of the sky.

Although most Kyrgyz now live in high-rise apartment blocks, they have a special affection for the yurt. Often, on the occasion of a birthday a yurt will be set up and guests invited to the «dastarkhan» — a «holiday table». The yurt is also a place where the Kyrgyz gather for the funeral of their relatives.

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